Fried stinky tofu is a Taiwanese delicacy that, if nothing else, certainly lives up to its name. But for adventurous eaters, finding it here in L.A. is a treat.

Wang serves his stinky tofu with spicy Hunan-style chile sauce, pickled vegetables, garlic sauce, cilantro, and green onions. For now, Zhao sources the perfume lemons used at Lulala from a mix of ...