Pass fleecy mountain goats licking mineral-rich silt from wide rocky riverbeds. Surmount Sunwapta Pass, where the Atlantic and Arctic watersheds divide. Ride massive ice explorer vehicles onto the ...

The summer weather wasn't... It’s the first of July in Alberta: Canada Day. Wearily cresting the Sunwapta Pass in the Rockies, I am greeted by a freezing headwind straight off the nearby icefields.