I live part of the year in Istanbul, and my homecomings there always involve a ravenous re-encounter with lahmacun, that blistered, paper-thin, fire-kissed flatbread topped with spicy ground meat.

Bliss. Skip the cities more touristy, laminated-menu eateries and visit the hotel’s rooftop fine-dining restaurant Serica with a panoramic view of old Istanbul. The tasting menu is unparalleled ...